Factory Chain Grease.
Strip it or Ride it?

You take a brand-new chain out of the box and the first thing you notice is a sticky, thick film. That grease is a special factory-applied assembly and protective compound, applied hot before the chain is assembled. This means it:

• penetrates bushings, pins and rollers,
• protects the metal during transport,
• is extremely resistant to water and degreasers,
• clings to the chain like Monday clings to your soul.

This is not an ordinary lubricant — it’s an industrial-grade anti-corrosion shield.

What is factory grease on a new bicycle chain?

Factory grease is a high-viscosity compound whose main purpose is protection and initial lubrication. It is applied to the chain components before assembly, allowing it to reach places where a typical bottle-applied lube often can’t:

• inside the bushings,
• at the pin–bushing interfaces,
• inside the rollers.

Thanks to this, a new chain is ready to ride straight out of the box — even if the rider has no servicing habits yet.

Why do manufacturers use this type of grease?

Corrosion protection during transport

A chain can begin to corrode within hours in a humid environment. During shipping it experiences temperature swings, humidity changes and sometimes half a world of travel. Factory grease has one primary job: to prevent corrosion before the chain ever reaches your bike.

Initial lubrication inside the links

Because the grease is applied before assembly, it reaches exactly where lubrication is needed — inside the links themselves. This gives it a clear advantage over lubricants applied later, only to the outside of an assembled chain.

“Plug and play” for the user

Manufacturers assume that many users will simply buy a bike and ride it. Factory grease makes that possible: you can hop on and ride safely without immediate servicing or additional lubrication.

Can you ride on factory grease?

Short answer: yes, you can. Long answer: it depends on what you expect from your drivetrain and the conditions you ride in.

Advantages of riding on factory grease

• In dry conditions, it can last for 200–400 km.
• It protects the internals of the links from the very beginning.
• It does not require immediate degreasing or servicing.
• It’s a convenient solution for beginners and casual riders.

If you mostly ride on tarmac, in dry conditions, and haven’t yet gone deep into drivetrain maintenance, factory grease will comfortably handle your first miles.

Disadvantages of riding on factory grease

• It is very sticky and aggressively attracts dirt.
• In mud, sand and dust it quickly turns into an abrasive paste.
• It may cause chain suck and reduce shifting smoothness.
• It interferes with modern lubricants and waxes that require clean metal surfaces.

In dynamic MTB, gravel or autumn–winter urban riding, factory grease often becomes more of a problem than a benefit.

Why do many cyclists remove factory grease?

Factory grease and contamination

Due to its stickiness, factory grease acts like a magnet for dust, sand and other contaminants. Over time, a layer resembling “wet sandpaper” forms on the chain, accelerating wear of the cassette, chainrings and the chain itself.

Poor compatibility with modern lubricants

Advanced chain lubricants, drip-wax systems and hot-wax setups require the cleanest possible, degreased metal in order to bond properly and penetrate deep into the links. If the factory layer remains, the new lubricant struggles to reach the metal, and much of its potential is wasted.

Wear test results

Tests conducted in tribology laboratories show that the best wear results are achieved by chains that are:

• fully degreased of factory grease,
• then protected with a modern lubricant or wax according to the manufacturer’s procedure.

Under these conditions, drivetrain wear is reduced and friction losses are lower compared to riding on the factory compound.

So what should you do with factory grease? (Three scenarios)

Scenario 1 – You just want to ride

If you simply want to get on the bike and ride, without diving into servicing details:

• wipe excess grease from the outside of the chain,
• ride until the chain becomes noisy or noticeably dry,
• only then consider a full clean and lubricant change.

This is a simple and safe approach that is perfectly sufficient in many cases.

Scenario 2 – You want maximum drivetrain longevity

If your priority is maximum drivetrain lifespan, low friction and repeatable performance, the best solution is:

• complete removal of factory grease (degreasing the chain to bare metal),
• application of a high-quality chemical lubricant or wax system according to instructions,
• consistent maintenance thereafter (same system, regular cleaning).

This is the approach chosen by riders who consciously care for their drivetrain and calculate running costs over the long term.

Scenario 3 – You’re looking for a compromise

If you don’t want to degrease the chain completely right away, but are planning to switch to a better lubricant, you can take a middle path:

• wipe excess factory grease from the outside,
• ride around 100–200 km in relatively mild conditions,
• then thoroughly degrease the chain and switch to your target lubrication system.

This way, you partially benefit from the factory protection and then build a better foundation for a modern lubricant.

Summary – factory grease in a nutshell

• You can ride on factory grease, especially for casual riding in dry conditions.
• It is not an optimal solution for dirt, mud and intensive use.
• It doesn’t work perfectly with modern lubricants and waxes that require clean metal.
• The best results come from degreasing the chain and committing to one well-chosen lubrication system from the start.
• Factory grease is an excellent starting point — but not necessarily the best plan for the entire “life” of the chain.

Revolubes™
Know How Division